It has been a wild week since I last posted and it's going to be very difficult to do our experiences justice. Firstly though, John and I would like to thank everyone for reading and posting and sounding so excited. We are having a thrilling time and it is nice to feel like we are able to share it a bit.
Ok, so when I left off a week ago we had just returned from trekking in the Hills of Thailand. Our next stop was Laos, but we liked Chaing Mai so much that we decided to spend an extra day hanging out with our guide Tarzan and seeing the surrounding areas in his friend's-girlfriend's Honda civic. That evening we started to experience some of the troubles that would shape the next few days of our trip. Weldon was having stomach troubles (which were resolved rather quickly), and I was having mental problems (which were not). The worst of my symptoms was fairly severe vertigo, which by itself was not that big a deal. But when coupled with dry mouth, nausea, diarrhea, minute panic episodes (not a fun thing), inability to sleep, loss of appetite, inability to sweat properly, and a very small van seat in a sweltering vehicle headed away from any semblance of modern civilization or medicine it was not a very good deal. I was sick. John and Ty were ok, but it was around 40 Degree C so no one was really doing well.
That night we arrived at a beautiful hotel that was wicked cheap and part of the packaged transportation to the border of Laos, at Chang Kong, that we had arranged. We slept there with the AC cranked and got up early in the morning. I was feeling no better, but there was no turning back. We were through customs and immigrations by late morning, and than boarded a "slow boat" down the Mekong river. In our guidebook it warned that the crews may try to cram as many as 80 people on a boat during the slow season and that this could cause crowding problems and make things very uncomfortable. By the time Ty stopped counting heads he had reached 100. John tells me that the river was beautiful the first day, but I was too busy lying on the deck trying to muster the energy to drink water and stay conscious to notice much except that the floors and benches had no padding and at one time my feet were touching 4 other people at once. To cap things off, the girl across the aisle had a seizure about 1 hour before we arrived at the village we were staying at and no one had any idea what to do. We just floundered around with head head and jaw and were terrified (about an hour later she appeared to be fine). I was sure I was next.
The village had no outside electricity and so the had to run generators for power. This meant that there was no lights and no fan after 2200. It was probably 90 degrees F that night.
Next morning it was back on the boat for 7 more hours. I was feeling all right around mid-day, but was back to awful in the evening. I did get to see the river however, and it deserves some explanation. The Mekong is a big river. It runs from way up in China all the way down to the bottom of Cambodia and Vietnam. It is wide and slowish and the entire population of Laos (around 9 million people) dump their waste and trash and dead bodies into it. Along the banks we would pass two or three hut villages that existed on farming rice and set-netting the river. We waved at the children on the banks and watched them go about life as they have for a couple of Milena. There were water buffalo herds and crazy birds and thick jungle all around us. It was splendid.
After about 15 total hours of boating we arrived in Luang Prabang. It was a really neat city of about 50,000 people and was rich with culture, sights, museums, and nature, or so John tells me. At this point Johnson was on the upswing, but I was still pretty bad off. We arrived in the evening and I went to our hotel after forcing down some food. I stayed there all night and all of the next day and it was decided somewhere in the haze that we would book flights to Hanoi and get me some medical attention ASAP. We had been hypothesizing about why I would be so sick and had come up with the classics, dehydration, food poisoning, exhaustion, heat, etc. but nothing seemed right. In a stroke of genius the day before however, John had mentioned that it may be a reaction to my Malaria medication, Doxycyclin. He said that it gave him minor versions of the symptoms I was experiencing and that would be congruent with what had occurred earlier in Bangkok when I had taken a couple of doxy in a short period of time and ended up in the Hospital. To draw things to a close on the illness portion of this blog, I stopped taking my doxy and stayed in bed for a whole day and than some and was feeling like a new person after around 36 hours. I even ate a meal. While i was in bed, everyone else went to a 60M waterfall just out of town and swam, jumped off things, and generally had a good time. One of the pictures is of John at the waterfall.
Unfortunately, because we had bought plane tickets to get to a doctor in Hanoi we had to leave the next day even though I was feeling much better.
A brief interlude:
It was really awful being really sick in a part of the world with NO medical care. It was scary and the heat was nearly unbearable. This portion of the trip was one of the most miserable experiences I have ever had in my life. Having said that, it was still an experience and I don't look back on it unfavorably. What a ridiculous thing to be doing. I wouldn't have it any other way. Secondly, this is getting long, but we have done so much and I want to do it justice for myself, not just my friends and family (who's subscription I appreciate so much). I imagine that I will reference this later as I am not keeping a proper journal. Maybe You should take a break and read the second half at another sitting so as no to get bored or over saturated.
Continuing:
Continuing:
We arrived in Hanoi by 1 hour plane flight and shortly found a wonderful and cheap hotel. John and I had a room with a shower, ac, tv, fan, and all of the other amenities that you would expect for $7.50 per person per night. Outside, the streets were crazy. In a two lane street (by American standards) there was traffic going both direction as well as traffic on each edge going against the flow next to it. It was made up of bicycles, bicycle-taxis, pedestrians, taxis,people carrying their wares for sale, buses, cars, and backpackers. There were no laws, signs, lines or officials directing traffic. The sound of horns was non-stop and the only rule was to get out of the way of things that were bigger than you. We decided to leave quickly, and booked a touristy trip to Hoa Long Bay (surely this isn't spelled properly - on a map it is almost directly east of Hanoi). We were picked up by mini-bus at out $7.50 nightly hotel and were driven to a bay where we (after some serious confusion and lack of direction) boarded the "Legend Cruiser." It was a medium sized boat that had 3 stories, a dining area, two-bed cabins with bathrooms, a deck with sun chairs, and a wonderful crew. The bay itself is indescribable with words. The brochure says that it has nearly 2000 spires of limestone that jut out of the ocean, but words are one thing and being surrounded in some of the worlds most amazing scenery cannot be described by them properly. That same day we explored a massive cave on one of the larger spire islands and hopped in some kayaks and explored the Eastern Pacific for ourselves. We had a tremendous 7 course dinner of fresh seafood on the boat and slept on the deck until it started raining.
That brings us to today, April 28, 2009, a day that I will never forget. We climbed a 1000ish meter "mountain" in the jungle and than went to a small town called Haiphong on a large island. We rented motor bikes and cruised along the coast on wide roads with little traffic and amazing sights. There were more cows and goats on the road than there were cars. When I get home and you ask how Asia was, this is the day I will describe. Unbelievable. We swam on our own beaches in the warm sunshine. We saw women laboring in rice fields and waves crashing into 200ft rock walls. It is amazing here. We capped off the evening with a terrific meal that came as part of our accommodations package and are now going to bed so we can wake up in the middle of the night and watch Chelsea play Barcelona in the semi-finals of the UEFA Champions League. Tomorrow we will cruise back to the Coast and than to Hanoi. The total cost for 5 meals, two nights, three days, transportation, lodging, and wonderful everything... $83. Unbelievable.
The pictures are of John at the waterfall, John on the "Legend Cruiser", a plate of river crabs we ordered at a restaurant and ate whole, and a Wat (temple) on a hill in Laos.
Thanks for being patient. Things here are still grand. Next we are going down the coast to Hue and are going to try to get our Scuba Diving Licenses or something.
Much love, Christopher and John Dunaway.